Monday, August 26, 2013

Porches, Peaches and Sweet Tea


Heading East - the Rest of the Story.....

We started a new book on this leg....The Bridge to Teribithia. I had never read it, but had seen a musical production years ago at the Kennedy Center's Theatre for children.  This was the 2nd "fun"/ non-Civil War book we had - although the themes in it are quite deep.   In a nutshell, a 10 year old boy befriends a lonely/unliked new girl in school, they find a common love of imaginary play, creating a fantasy world called "Terabithia".  So I don't spoil it for those who haven't read it, just know that it's a tear-jerker at the end, with real lessons on friendship, growing up and the value of imaginary play.  It was a Newberry Award winner for children's books....and we were riveted on it the entire day.


Ian pretty much missed Louisiana.  He took his requisite photo of "Welcome to Louisiana - Beinvenue en Louisiane", and promptly fell asleep.  I woke him up when we reached Mississippi...so he could take another photo.  And then there's THE river.



Ian was blown away by the size of the Mississippi, eventually claiming that it was so much better to drive than fly....or he would have missed all that!  We found Vicksburg National Park, and, once again, stopped for a picnic, discussing what was not a BATTLE, but a SEIGE and the differences.  

Vicksburg is so different in that it is largely memorials to the Union troops that surrounded the Confederates during the siege.  Mile after mile of memorials of all types.  We especially enjoyed a restored 1860 house, and a huge white monument to the North.  There was a replica of an ironsides ship that plied the waters of the Mississippi, and a cemetery that rivals Arlington.  Driving out of the park, we wound around through the old town of Vicksburg, a very dilapidated town, from what we saw.  Not the prettiest part of the south.







The road to Jackson, again, a key part of Sheridan's march to the sea, was up next, and we began to talk about some of the less admirable methods of war that the North employed in that late, cruel, push to wipe out the Confederates, women and children included.  



Our next stop was Fairhope, Alabama, home to my good friend Martha.  As we drove through Mobile, we talked about the other part of the war - the Navy ships that tried to blockade supply boats, and the battles around that area.  Ian got his first glance at the Gulf of Mexico here.  

Arriving at Martha's, and getting out of the car, we were hit full on with the humidity that exists in the deep lowlands of the South.  Her house is set in amongst tall pines, lush plants and flowers, and spanish moss.  Martha's porch is something to experience.  Her eclectic proclivity to placing a wide variety of plush chairs, cushions, swings, surrounded by tables, wind chimes, etc makes it like stepping into another world.  We sat out there each evening for long times...with the constant hum of cicadas serenading us as we spoke softly and visited.  The ceiling fan helped keep the mosquitos away.  


Martha had made a homemade sour cream peach pie.  DELICIOUS!  Unfortunately, Ian decided he didn't really like peaches.   We need to travel in the south more often.  He needs to be taught! ;)

Early the next morning, I got up early and, once again sat on the porch.  If you've ever been in rural areas, you'll understand how completely normal it is to hear the rooster crowing as the sun threatens to rise, feel a gentle cool breeze....and see the running humidity on the windows of the house.  Martha cooked bacon and sausage and biscuits and we were off to a picnic breakfast at Fish River.  It just so happens that, during the Civil War,  Admiral Farragut tried to break up a supply route that the Confederates were using the river for.  There are park picnic benches and historical markers to read.  We enjoyed that people from the neighborhood came by and sat a spell - strangers, but somehow friends.  I loved especially seeing the LUSH ferns, droopy trees and moss, and gorgeous landscaping on these low country houses.  
 
Ian and I then drove to Gulf Shores Beach and spent a couple of hours enjoying the warm (!) waters and white sand beaches.   It was uncrowded and a perfect day - for sunburn.  In spite of multiple applications of sunblock on both of us...we both got a tad pink.  What I've noticed about Gulf Shores (this is my second trip there) are the plethora of sting rays that swim parallel to the beach and very close in....enough to make me jump out of the way. :)


We followed our beach trip with lunch at a local icon,  Lambert's restaurant - the "home of throwed rolls".  A HUGE restaurant, known for down-home country cooking and with a usual 1-3 hour wait, the "schtick" for this place is that the waiters bring out trays full of fresh baked yeast rolls, and if you want one, you raise your hand and they throw them at you!  I was amazed...didn't see any dropped at all while we were there.  Ian loved it - truly perfect for a 10 year old kid!  (and the food WAS awesome! - pork chops, home fries, fried okra, green beans, collards, slaw,.... you get the picture!)





We followed this with an afternoon - back on the porch, to rest.  Martha's neighbor had a pool that she uses every day, and Ian had fun swimming late that afternoon, and learning to dive on their diving board.  Martha used to teach diving, so they had a grand time.


Dinner at Martha's sisters was light - followed by dessert of decadent chocolate pie.  Again, I sinned.  I am definitely now on a diet.

After dinner, Martha had a handyman who was working on her lawnmower come by with his family.  He needed to finish working on it, so Ian played with the kids.  They ran barefoot through the dusky night, dodging fireflies, seeing who could out run each other.  Martha and I sat and visited with the man's wife...and all of us got eaten up by "skeeters"; my souvenir of South Alabama.   I'm sure Ian enjoyed one of my favorite past times as a child, though...chasing fireflies on a hot summer night.
 ***

Friday morning, early, we left for the final 2 day leg of our trip.  The 4th book for this journey was "Shenandoah".  Now, as far as I knew, and based on what was on the cover description, this was about the war in the Shenandoah valley.  Imagine how confused we were to discover that the first 4 discs were all about a murder mystery with a Confederate soldier returning from war to find that his wife had married his brother.  They had been mistakenly told he had been killed.  What followed was hatred, arguing, fighting and the ultimate death of one of them.  Finally, after my skipping some parts that I just thought were too graphic for a 10 year old, they got to 1864 in the Shenandoah Valley. 


 We stopped for a couple of hours at Stone Mountain, Georgia.  What a beautiful place and  one of the best memorials I've seen for the Confederacy.  We spent a leisurely 2 hours, roaming through the park, taking photos of some of the monuments to each of the Confederate states, and, of course gazing in awe at the stone carving in the mountain of Stonewall Jackson, Robert E. Lee and Jefferson Davis.  It is huge.  It reminded me just slightly of Mt. Rushmore, just not quite as large.  It was still deep south, though and the humidity was really hard to bear in the middle of the day. (I'll take 106 in Dallas any day when the humidity is only 40%). 






The rest of the trip was spent listening to the end of the Shenandoah story - with the South predictably losing.  



This particular book though mentioned so many of the places around where we live.  As we were driving from Winchester to Loudoun, the story was literally about Mosby's Rangers, who were FROM Loudoun and well known heroes in our county.  That was perfect timing for the story! Ian loves that he lives in a house OLDER than the Civil War. 


 He's never been to Gettysburg, Antietam nor Balls Bluff, even though they are a stones' throw from us.  Looks like we'll have a few short trips coming up.


We made it home on Saturday, intact, only suffering two traffic delays and one rain storm the entire trip.  Returning home for Ian was exciting to him - he'd never been away from his parents this long...and he was anxious to see them.  As for me, when I dropped him off and started the final drive to my house...I felt suddenly empty - my shadow was gone.  But sweet, sweet memories will linger for a loooong time.

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